Nymburk
From Nymburk to Hrabal’s Kersko
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The connection between Bohumil Hrabal and Kersko is nothing short of legendary, perhaps best captured in Jiří Menzel’s film “The Snowdrop Festival”. The forest settlement, which began to take shape in the 1930s on parcels of land formerly owned by farmer Josef Hyross, still retains its unique charm. Along the quiet lanes—referred to as “avenues”—you’ll find a mix of original two-story brick houses and small wooden cottages nestled among the trees. In 1965, the famous writer bought one of them. You’ll find it at Avenue No. 30, not far from a sculpture of cats near the bus stop, a nod to Hrabal’s well-known love for felines.
Your journey begins in Nymburk. From the main train station, follow the blue hiking trail through Přemyslid Square, where you’ll find a bench with a wooden statue titled “Sitting with Bohumil Hrabal”. As you walk through the historic center of this royal town—home to the impressive Gothic Church of St. Giles—you’ll quickly realize that Nymburk itself deserves a full walking tour. But for now, continue from the square toward the river. At the Stone Bridge, take the ferry across the Elbe, and within moments you’ll reach the U Tří koček seating area and Hrabal’s former villa. From there, follow Zálabská and Pražská streets to the brewery, where the famed Postřižinské beer is brewed. Hrabal lived here from 1919 to 1947, a fact commemorated by a plaque placed “at the height where dogs pee,” just as he wished. Upon entering the brewery grounds, be sure to stop at the gatehouse on the left-hand side to ask for permission to view the plaque—they’ll let you in.
Head back toward the Elbe and follow the red trail, which leads along the river, past fields and woods, and over a footbridge across the Výrovka stream into the village of Písty. Just beyond the village lies a unique natural monument—the Písečný přesyp, a shifting sand dune formed in the Quaternary period, now nestled within a pine forest. Continue through the woods and the expansive lake of the Sadská sandpit will open up before you. A swim in the clear water can be a refreshing break before the next stretch.
Stay on the red trail, which in this section is part of the Blaník–Říp pilgrimage route. It will lead you to a picturesque cemetery in Hradištko, where Bohumil Hrabal is buried alongside his wife Pipsi, his mother Maryška, stepfather Francin, brother Slávek, and his legendary Uncle Pepin.
Continue through the Kersko forest along the red-marked trail until you reach the main avenue known as Betonka, where you’ll find the St. Joseph’s mineral spring. Here, you can take a short detour—about one kilometer—to visit Hrabal’s cottage, or continue straight on Betonka to the famous Hájenka restaurant. Here, just like in the film, you can choose wild boar served with rosehip sauce or sauerkraut, echoing the humorous debate between the local hunters.
Your trip through Kersko ends about a kilometer further at the bus stop on the main road.
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